S1E8: Sailing from San Diego, CA to Turtle Bay, Mexico

Sailing…

We couldn’t have ordered better sailing as we left San Diego harbor and watched Point Loma recede into the horizon. Spirits were high all around, as you can imagine.  Being Halloween, our crew surprised us by popping out of the salon into the cockpit in modified pirate costumes consisting of a fuzzy red ‘viking’ hat with white horns, stick on black moustaches, hairy red beards, and plastic swords. They preceded to ‘take over the ship’….until they realized they couldn’t read a chart plotter and still didn’t know how to work the sails. Thus ended the mutiny.

In the middle of all this fun, we were sailing along happily at 6.5 – 7 kn (same as wind speed) using our main and jib with an apparent wind angle of  80-90*.  At 2:00 in the afternoon we gave up following our PredictWind weather models…they just weren’t accurate at all.  By 8pm that evening, the winds had fallen off to 7-8 kn and we put up the big Code 0 and alternately sailed and motor-sailed through the night at 3-5 kn.

We all managed to complete our overnight shifts; Don and Phyllis shared a 3 hour shift from 9 pm to midnight, Janet and Alisa shared a 3 hour shift from midnight to 3 am, then Don and Phyllis were back on until 6 am when me and Alisa gratefully fell into our beds for some sleep. Throughout the night we saw 8-10 kn winds and using only our main and jib sailed through the night.  By 8:30 am on our 2nd day we were down to 1-5 kn of variable winds, so we fired up the motors and plugged away on course. But all was not bad… Don and Phyllis woke me up abruptly to man a fishing line since we had TWO fish on! With bleary eyed and uncaffeinated, I hauled myself on deck to reel in…. a little baby Dorado. Of course we released him. Luckily, the other line had a nice blue fin tuna on that made a delicious lunch and dinner!  Our catch also quelled the ongoing threats of mutiny if sushi was not provided!

Day 3 saw much of the same, without the fish, and at midnight-thirty we gratefully arrived in Turtle Bay along with about 8 other boats. We anchored near the cliffs and all four us fell into our beds for some sound sleep.

Turtle Bay

Getting Fuel

Waking in the morning, we looked out on beautiful Turtle Bay. After some coffee, and a quick clean up and change of clothes, we launched the dinghy and headed into town. We’d been listening to the radio traffic amongst the fleet that morning and head a familiar theme from those attempting to get fuel from Enrique, Jr. at the pier. Since we’d done the Baja HaHa in 2016, the story was hauntingly familiar about the ‘magician,’ Enrique, who is apparently still able to fill a 40 gallon fuel tank with 60 gallons of fuel. We also remembered what Enrique had done to our friend Ricky the year before…

Ricky’s Story

In 2016 when we had been to Turtle Bay on the HaHa, rather than chance the fuel at the pier, which was suffering from reports of bad fuel and and over-reporting the fuel delivered, we had asked a panga driver, Ricky, to take our fuel cans into town to the Pemex, fill them, and deliver them back. We gave Ricky money for the fuel and sent him off for what should have been an hour or two. The hours drug slowly by as we waited….and waited….and waited. Finally, around 9 pm, Ricky returned with filled fuel cans and explained what had happened.  Enrique, Jr., the fuel dealer on the pier, had caught wind of Ricky’s errand and called the local police, charging him with selling fuel without a permit. Ricky was then detained for over 12 hours being questioned. Now Ricky was a police officer himself (before marrying and moving to Turtle Bay), so there really was no question of Ricky’s innocence; rather just a ploy to keep him from providing a competitive alternative to Enrique’s little game he had going.

How We Got Fuel in Turtle Bay

Unwilling to patronize Enrique, we loaded our fuel cans in the dinghy and headed into town with the intent to walk up to the Pemex, fill them, and hitch a ride back.  We didn’t get very far when a dark, rusty red pickup truck pulled alongside to offer help….you guessed it…..IT WAS RICKY!  We caught up with Ricky’s family news and their year, talked about us getting Bonzai, and then loaded up in the back of Ricky’s borrowed truck for ride to the Pemex. On the way back, Ricky ran us to the Tortilleria (tortilla store) and tienda (general store), then drove us straight up to our dinghy on the beach.  Calling over a couple of the local boys, they loaded all our stuff into the dinghy and we were set to go!

Some Turtle Bay History

Turtle Bay is a small town of about 2500 people. Fishing is the main employment, with only about 37% earning an income. But nevertheless, Turtle Bay has pioneered the advancement of sustainable fishing methods in Baja. Years ago, the fishermen of the area formed a co-op to study, promote and advance sustainable fishing methods and today are leaders in exporting ‘certified green’ live lobster and abalone to Asian markets.

The Baja HaHa arrival into Turtle Bay is economically very important to the town. Ricky, for example, told us that the money he makes while the HaHa is in town buys everything for his family’s Christmas. So, schools and most non-tourist related business is closed so that the residents can earn money helping us gringos.  While in Turtle Bay, expect the pangas to come around several times throughout the day offering to take your trash into town, offering rides to shore, offering…well, anything you might need. In town, the restaurants are staffed and stocked and waiting for your business, residents with vehicles will offer you a ride if you’re walking, and everyone is helpful and friendly.

Baja HaHa Fun!

A big part of the Turtle Bay experience on the HaHa is the annual baseball game pitting HaHa participants against the local kids.  The Poohbah provides all of the equipment and we play on a beautiful baseball diamond complete with bleachers and a snack bar serving cold drinks and beers.  Everyone gets a chance at bat and no one’s turn at bat is up until they hit the ball. The game is tons of fun and somehow the local kids always win 🙂 . At the end of the game, all of the equipment is donated to the local school for the kids.

The HaHa also puts on a big beach party including volleyball and the annual Tug of Rope contest: Men vs. Women.  Spoiler alert: the women always win.

Our beach party ended when Alisa was hit in the back with the tug of war rope, bruising her back pretty badly. I had also twisted my ankle getting out of the dinghy…leaving Bonzai with 1/2 our crew on ‘injured reserve’ for a couple of days.

But, of course, none of that stopped us from having fun on Bonzai! Alisa managed to keep cooking delicious food and we thoroughly enjoyed our rest and play time in Turtle Bay.

Up Next….

Turtle Bay to….. well, Bonzai experienced some disasters. Stay tuned.

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S1E7: BajaHaHa 2017 – Final Prep, Meet the Crew, and We’re OFF!

Final Prep: Get the Temporary Import Permit!

What is a TIP?

So, let’s start by explaining what a Temporary Import Permit, or TIP, is.  Mexico requires all boats and vehicles entering Mexico to obtain a Temporary Import Permit. This permit is good for ten years which is a deal considering it only costs $52 USD. Now, the way it’s supposed to work is that you obtain a TIP before entering Mexico, and you cancel it when you leave. But that’s not what anyone does. So many Americans want to come in and out of Mexico without having to get a new permit every time, so they just don’t cancel their TIP when they leave. Then when they return, they still have a valid TIP.  And that’s all well and good, until you sell your boat and haven’t cancelled the TIP.

Because Mexico has another rule regarding TIPS: only the owner who obtained the TIP, can cancel the TIP.  So, if you buy a boat that has an existing TIP, and the previous owner did not cancel it, you CANNOT get a TIP for yourself. And a TIP in someone else’s name is not valid. AND….if you take your boat into Mexico without a valid TIP, the government can seize and keep your boat. Besides that, all marinas require a valid TIP on a foreign flagged vessel before they will give you a slip. So the bottom line is, you HAVE to get a TIP.

How to Cancel a TIP:

We had learned the hard way in our previous boat purchase the importance of ensuring there was no valid TIP prior to purchasing a boat, so, despite assurances from the previous owner of Bonzai that he had never had a TIP on Bonzai, we put a clause in the sales contract that he would be responsible for cancelling any TIP that existed. As you remember, we closed rather chaotically, and in the chaos, that detail slipped through the cracks. When we tried to get our TIP, Bonzai showed up in the database as having an existing TIP. Feeling rather proud of ourselves for having anticipated this, we contacted our broker and said, “take care of this.”  Monty (our broker) and Terry (Bonzai’s previous owner), worked very diligently to cancel the TIP, but the TIP was not in Terry’s name, but was obtained by the owner that he had bought Bonzai from. That owner did not answer any contact attempts (phone, email).  So, his next step was to write a letter to Mexico City requesting the cancellation.  Six weeks later, he still had no acknowledgement that his letter had even been received (actually, at the time of this writing, it has been 7 months, and it apparently was never received or acted upon).

Fortunately, once a year, officials from Mexico City travel to various Consulates around the U.S. for the purpose of cancelling these old TIPs.

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We Head to Los Angeles….

So, we took the train from Riverside, CA to Los Angeles early in the morning, arriving at Union Station shortly after 8 am. If you ever have the opportunity to explore Union Station, you really should! It is the largest train station in the western US and is such a grand old station. She is beautifully kept and wisks you back in time to an era when train travel was glamorous. With soaring ceilings, and enormous arched doorways, the artwork surrounds you in the architecture, windows, floors and even the furniture.

Stained glass in Union Station

Leaving Union Station, it was a short walk across the famous MacArthur Park…

MacArthur Park in Los Angeles is a beautiful, serene oasis in the city.

A few blocks later, we found ourselves at the Mexican Consulate (look for the big Mexican flag, duh). Being gringos, we were immediately directed over to the area at the Banjercito where the Mexico City officials were standing by.  Banjercito is the government controlled bank in Mexico and unlike in the US where you make your DMV payment to the DMV, or your tax payment to the IRS, in Mexico, all payments to a government service must be made at the Banjercito. Which is why only certain consulates are capable of hosting the officials from Mexico City.

All in all, the entire process took about 30 minutes. The only slight hang up we had is that the TIP application required our engine serial numbers…and our engines do not have serial numbers.  Some quick creative thinking had us appearing to make a phone call and jotting down some random numbers which we put on the application. (When we returned to Bonzai we put these random numbers on our engines with a P-touch label). I really don’t know of another way to resolve this problem!

Clowning Around at Phillipe’s

Alright, now this could only ever happen to me! As long as we were in LA, we toured some of the most famous eateries, one being Phillipe’s for their famous french dipped sandwiches (they invented them!).  We were in such a good mood after getting our TIP, and I got a little silly. We were in the back room eating when I noticed the table in the corner was trying to get a group photo. I snuck behind the photographer and started sticking my tongue out and making ridiculous gestures to get them all laughing. They asked us to join them, and then revealed who they were….the reunion of the Barnum and Bailey & Ringling Bros. circus clowns!  OMG!

Clowning around Phillipe’s!

We had so much fun hanging out with them and listening to their stories of their days in the circus. Exceptional people, every one of them!

Time to Pick Up the Crew!

If you haven’t watched the video yet, you just have to. One must experience our friends and neighbors, Phyllis and Alisa. We picked them up back home in Arizona and drove back to Cali together, where we finished the last minute provisioning. We also spent 2 or 3 days teaching them a little about sailing, since this was their first time ever on a sailboat! On Bonzai, we take having a good time seriously, but we also take safety seriously, and if anything were to happen, we feel it is extremely important that everyone on the boat would be able to take the helm, use the radio, close a through hull, assume a duty in a man-overboard situation and etc. So, we took several days to accustom them to the boat and its functions. Of course, with these two, all this serious safety precautions is well tempered with hilarity!

And finally….FINALLY…

We’re off!  I don’t think anything can prepare you for the start of a huge rally like this. For the parade, all 146 boats gather tightly together at the entrance to Shelter Island and are sent off with great fanfare! The fireboats are there shooting streams of water into the air, every boat is blasting horns, laughing, waving to each other and getting caught up in the feeling of being a part of something semi epic.

146 parading from Shelter Island to Point Loma together!

It is completely nerve wracking having so many boats crammed so tightly together as we make our way to Point Loma and the start line. This year, a navy ship apparently did not get the memo of the parade time, as it chose this time to enter the harbor and we all threaded our way out to the Point. And with a final blast of the horn….the Baja HaHa 2017 is OFF!

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S1E5: 2000 Leopard 38 Boat Tour!

We finally have all the survey work completed, the new rigging, all of our instruments are working (including the new wind instrument) so we head up the Southern California Coast for a little shake down cruise. Our route is from San Diego Bay to Mission Bay, a short little hop. While we are anchored at Mission Bay for the day, we take you on a little boat tour!

In retrospect, I should have probably cleaned the boat a little better and stowed the lines from sailing….but, well, that’s just life I guess!

Leopard Boat Tour


The Bow

We start at the bow and point out the dolphin chairs, which are great. I’ll add in here that we also have the two forward deck lockers which house two 100 gallon water storage tanks. The water tanks are filled directly from the top of the tank. There’s plenty of room left over for other storage as well. This area shares the space for our anchor chain locker and electric windlass, also.

 

Engine Access

Talking a little more in-depth about engine access. Our engines are two Westerbeke 40’s, one on each side. The starboard engine is only accessed from down below. The top wood panel removes quickly and easily for routine maintenance. For more extensive access, all of the wood panels can be removed by taking out the screws and pulling out the wood panels, which gives easy access all around the engine. The port engine has additional access from the top by rolling back the mattress of the bed in the aft cabin and opening a hinged hatch. This makes the port engine very easily accessed!

Port engine from top access

Originally, ours had foam sound insulation attached to the wood panels, but after seeing what deteriorating sound insulation looks like…little flecks and chunks of decaying foam everywhere, and falling into whatever you open…we opted to just get rid of it.  The space aft of the engine compartments are so large, we use them to store dock lines and fenders, though we do need to do some better organization of those spaces. We’re working on it!

Where to put the dinghy motor?


Regarding the dinghy’s outboard mounting situation…..what a pain that thing is!  We’ve heard both sides of “just leave it on the dinghy…it’s fine!” and “No, never leave it on the dinghy!”  We’re currently testing out leaving it on the dinghy on the davits, but that has an immediate downside of making the winching up on the dingy davits exceptionally difficult! Our dinghy winching pulley system isn’t perfect already, but the added weight is just awful. So, we’re also sketching out different ways of taking the motor off and storing it. Yay! Another pending boat project!

View from the helm


Adding to the ‘view from the helm’ segment:  when Don and I were shopping for boats, and actually on every friends’ boat that we see, this is an important aspect that I am evaluating. I’m not a tall woman. I’m 5’3″, and on most boats I can’t see the front of the boat while standing or sitting at the helm without some kind of booster step or cushion to sit on. Remember when you were little and had to sit on a telephone book to eat at the grownup table (did I just date myself there?) That’s what it feels like. So, being able for a short girl to stand or sit at the helm and actually SEE was important to us!

Also from the helm, we were so proud to replace the old Raymarine electronics with our B&G system. The only thing we did not replace was the Raymarine chain drive autopilot. These are expensive, Bonzai’s is working fine, and although old, it is a simple system that is not prone to failure. The downside is that the autopilot uses the Raymarine Seatalk system, and our B&G Zeus II uses NMEA 2000. If there is way to make these two things ‘talk’ to each other I’d love to hear it! But for now, they don’t. So heading changes cannot be controlled by or done through the chartplotter, but are done from the autopilot control display that you see at the helm.

the galley


In the galley, I pointed out our icemaker. We love that thing! Here was our reasoning….we wanted a ‘drink’ fridge. Drinks are the thing you go in and out of the fridge for the most, and if you keep them separate, your fridge/freezer will operate more efficiently and effectively.  We had looked at an Engel 12 volt portable, which are great but cost over $800.  We already had the Rtic cooler
which we’ve used and really liked for over a year, and it fits under the cockpit table, but access to ice isn’t really feasible.  Fortunately, we found this little countertop icemaker to keep us supplied with ice! We keep a container of ice in the freezer for iced drinks, and keep the Rtic filled with ice, and only run it a few hours a day, if at all. The amazon reviews for all of these little countertop icemakers run about the same…they work great for about a year or two and then die. But at $80 dollars, it seems more economical than the Engel.

Finally, there’s the FoodSaver. Honestly, I don’t know how we’d live without it on the boat! The thing about a FoodSaver vs. a Ziplock type bag is the airtight. Food stored in the airtight Foodsaver bags last forever! They don’t freezer burn and they stay fresh. We chose a compact size for Bonzai! which means you have to manually lock and unlock the lid when sealing, rather than the larger ones that you close the lid and they lock and unlock themselves. It’s really not even an extra step. This one also has the accessory port that will cold seal a mason jar for airsealing liquids, soups, and fragile food like lettuce. Very, very, very handy!
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salon


Moving into the salon! Yes, we hate the blue vinyl upholstery, too! Yes, it will be replaced….eventually! Meanwhile, over at the control panel….we replaced the original radio with our B&G V50 which has built in AIS, and interacts with our chartplotter. We also have a handheld “slave” to it that we carry out to the helm. Additionally, we have a completely separate, but weaker West Marine handheld that we carry as a backup. Behind the TV, we replaced the original masonite panel with a heavier material called SeaBoard and mounted our upgraded solar controls to it as well as the holder for the B&G handheld radio. This panel can be removed by taking out 4 screws. The panel below it with the electrical breakers hinges open giving very good access to the wiring for all of the helm instruments. There is also an access door below for even more access to the wiring.

on to the owner’s suite!

Of course, this hull has been tremendously upgraded in the new Leopard’s, but ours is fine. We love having the completely separate ‘shower room’. The sink and shower fixtures were pretty badly corroded; so far I’ve just scrubbed them up with vinegar, which removed the corrosion, but not the pitting, of course. We’ll be looking to replace those down the line to modernize that space a little. The only other thing we don’t care for is the push-to-pump shower basin pump out. You basically have to stand there pushing a button until it’s pumped out. We’ll be looking to replace it with an on/off switch. Oh wait…what’s that? ANOTHER  pending boat project!

I’m happy to say that we are completely happy with our cabin! Bonzai! came with beautiful comforter sets, we just added sheets. For sheets, we chose to go with full size flat sheets which we secure with these awesome little Bed Bands. Saves us from having to make custom fitted sheets and they work really well.

Storage issues


I think the only other thing worth mentioning is the storage issue in the aft cabin. Besides Don being a clothes horse, this is where we also stash the empty fuel cans when we don’t need them, as well as being our sail locker. We’re still working out storage solutions so that this can be a cabin again, and one project that we’ve sketched out is to cut hatches into our forward hulls that drop down into the hull’s crash boxes. This is just empty space, and if we limit it to one headsail per hull we won’t be compromising the weight distribution. With watertight hatches, we don’t compromise the function of the crash boxes. The crash boxes also have access from each of the forward cabins.

forward crash boxes…future sail locker?

But we’re also kicking around the idea of turning this cabin into a “shop”, and installing a small washing machine. Not sure what’s going to happen there in the future!

As always, thanks for following along here on the blog as well as over at YouTube!  See you soon!

 

 

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Survey Results!

We got our survey results and….there were no surprises! Yay!

Brad Destache of Destache Yacht Service had completed our survey, going over every system on the boat, including a mechanical survey of the engines and an engine fluid analysis.  At the same time, though we didn’t show it in the video, Chris Catterton of CC Rigging in San Diego had completed a full rigging survey as well.

The boat survey was a 37 page document, but we’ll just cut to the chase…WHAT DOES THIS BOAT NEED?

  • Repair impact compression point on the port hull to eliminate potential for water intrusion.
  • Determine the significance of the crevice corrosion on the starboard rudder gudgeon and port stern tube; repair IF necessary.
  • Repair starboard keel bottom grounding damage. (This was a fairly minor scuff)
  • Replace holding tank cabinet lower hinge on port side.
  • Confirm the water staining on the port engine space hull surfaces is the new swim step shower and service to eliminate water ingress.
  • Consider replacing the GPS antenna.
  • Determine the significance and service or repair voltage gauges which are pegged while running.
  • Renew the wire terminal end of the starboard engine oil pressure gauge and test for operation.
  • Install terminal covers per ABYC standards on the positive battery terminals.
  • Replace the wire nuts used for electrical connections at the port engine space blower with appropriate butt connectors.
  • Reconnect starboard engine space blower.
  • Secure batteries so that they do not shift more than one inch in any direction.
  • Replace cracked port engine exhaust hose and ensure 2 clamps are installed at each connection.
  • Remove unused service hoses in the port space and permanently cap any supply sources.
  • Connect Shurflo pump in the port/aft hull.
  • Service swim step shower to eliminate leak.
  • Permanently cap the drain fitting valve on the starboard fuel tank to ensure integrity.
  • Service or replace port shower drain pump screen to eliminate leak.
  • Replace port and starboard propeller shaft cutlass bearings to restore tolerances.
  • Replace hatch lock/handle on forward fiberglass hatch.
  • Replace lens on the port side deck hatch (crazing and cracked).
  • Descale and determine if rusted port engine mounts and propeller shaft coupler is serviceable. Replace if necessary.
  • Renew kinked port engine oil cooler hose with a factory or otherwise formed hose.
  • Service starboard mast mounted winch.
  • Re-run mainsail halyard to eliminate chafing against the rope clutch above.
  • Determine origin of fuel sitting in the starboard engine space bilge; service and clean.
  • Replace the enclosure cap on the AC power connection for the battery charger to eliminate shock hazards.
  • Replace cracked stanchion bases.
  • Ensure flares are current per Federal regulations.
  • Replace solar panel power supply wires with appropriate boat multi-strand wire.
  • Reconnect the solar regulator wires to eliminate short circuit hazards and to allow the panel to charge the batteries.
  • Remove disconnected negative wire the house battery bank to eliminate short circuit hazards.
  • Reinstall the Y valve and hose connection, or permanently cap the through hull valves on the starboard and port toilet direct discharge.
  • Install appropriate circuit protection device on the DC power supply to the inverter.
  • Cover the 12 volt positive and negative buss bars aft of the battery switches to eliminate short circuit hazards.

RIGGING SURVEY RESULTS

  • Replace the standing rigging
  • Service the winches on the mast
  • Service the primary winches as per manufacturer specifications
  • Reconfigure the reefing clew lines

As you can see, we had 2 ‘big ticket’ items:  replacing the cutlass bearings and replacing the standing rigging; as well as a few moderately expensive items such as replacing the stanchion bases and a couple hatches.  After gathering estimates to complete all of the recommended and required repairs, we went back to the Seller and asked that he contribute 1/2 of the repairs that were due to ‘deferred maintenance and repair’, which he readily agreed to.  And just like that, we had a deal!

All that was left was to close. As I alluded to in the Financing blog post, our closing day became a stressful, headache infused day due to our Essex Credit agent’s decision at 10:00 am to put off closing for a week, although over half a dozen busy people had cleared their schedules for it.  He was convinced to get on it though, and at the end of the day we were….NOT CLOSED.

What?  Essex Credit missed the deadline for the wire transfer. Catamaran Company agreed that a overnighted cashier’s check would be acceptable.  But…Catamaran Company’s bank put a 10 day hold on the check. For real. It probably wouldn’t have been a big deal, except that in anticipation of closing, we had scheduled Bonzai! to be hauled out and had arranged for all of the subcontractors to begin work in 2 days.  We had kind of had to beg and plead to get on everyone’s schedules because they were all backlogged on their schedules. We also had another deadline….the Baja HaHa Cruiser’s Rally 2017 was due to depart in 2 months, and we had signed up for it (more about why we did that later).  SO, if we delayed the work for 2 weeks, we were seriously running the risk of not having it all completed in time for our October 30th departure.  ARRRRRGHHHHH! What to do?  Well, we did the only sensible thing we could do….we called the Seller.  And bless his understanding and compassionate heart…he agreed to allow Bonzai! to go into the boatyard for repairs prior to closing.

This decision was not made lightly, because the ‘what ifs’ were pretty significant. What if the boat is damaged on the way to the boatyard? We had insurance and the previous owner had insurance, but who would be loss payee vs. who is actually out the money?  What if there is an accident in the boatyard? What if someone is injured on the boat before the closing date?  That would be a very messy nightmare situation. But we and the previous owner agreed to take the chance.

NEXT UP: ON TO THE BOATYARD!

 

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