S1E8: Sailing from San Diego, CA to Turtle Bay, Mexico

Sailing…

We couldn’t have ordered better sailing as we left San Diego harbor and watched Point Loma recede into the horizon. Spirits were high all around, as you can imagine.  Being Halloween, our crew surprised us by popping out of the salon into the cockpit in modified pirate costumes consisting of a fuzzy red ‘viking’ hat with white horns, stick on black moustaches, hairy red beards, and plastic swords. They preceded to ‘take over the ship’….until they realized they couldn’t read a chart plotter and still didn’t know how to work the sails. Thus ended the mutiny.

In the middle of all this fun, we were sailing along happily at 6.5 – 7 kn (same as wind speed) using our main and jib with an apparent wind angle of  80-90*.  At 2:00 in the afternoon we gave up following our PredictWind weather models…they just weren’t accurate at all.  By 8pm that evening, the winds had fallen off to 7-8 kn and we put up the big Code 0 and alternately sailed and motor-sailed through the night at 3-5 kn.

We all managed to complete our overnight shifts; Don and Phyllis shared a 3 hour shift from 9 pm to midnight, Janet and Alisa shared a 3 hour shift from midnight to 3 am, then Don and Phyllis were back on until 6 am when me and Alisa gratefully fell into our beds for some sleep. Throughout the night we saw 8-10 kn winds and using only our main and jib sailed through the night.  By 8:30 am on our 2nd day we were down to 1-5 kn of variable winds, so we fired up the motors and plugged away on course. But all was not bad… Don and Phyllis woke me up abruptly to man a fishing line since we had TWO fish on! With bleary eyed and uncaffeinated, I hauled myself on deck to reel in…. a little baby Dorado. Of course we released him. Luckily, the other line had a nice blue fin tuna on that made a delicious lunch and dinner!  Our catch also quelled the ongoing threats of mutiny if sushi was not provided!

Day 3 saw much of the same, without the fish, and at midnight-thirty we gratefully arrived in Turtle Bay along with about 8 other boats. We anchored near the cliffs and all four us fell into our beds for some sound sleep.

Turtle Bay

Getting Fuel

Waking in the morning, we looked out on beautiful Turtle Bay. After some coffee, and a quick clean up and change of clothes, we launched the dinghy and headed into town. We’d been listening to the radio traffic amongst the fleet that morning and head a familiar theme from those attempting to get fuel from Enrique, Jr. at the pier. Since we’d done the Baja HaHa in 2016, the story was hauntingly familiar about the ‘magician,’ Enrique, who is apparently still able to fill a 40 gallon fuel tank with 60 gallons of fuel. We also remembered what Enrique had done to our friend Ricky the year before…

Ricky’s Story

In 2016 when we had been to Turtle Bay on the HaHa, rather than chance the fuel at the pier, which was suffering from reports of bad fuel and and over-reporting the fuel delivered, we had asked a panga driver, Ricky, to take our fuel cans into town to the Pemex, fill them, and deliver them back. We gave Ricky money for the fuel and sent him off for what should have been an hour or two. The hours drug slowly by as we waited….and waited….and waited. Finally, around 9 pm, Ricky returned with filled fuel cans and explained what had happened.  Enrique, Jr., the fuel dealer on the pier, had caught wind of Ricky’s errand and called the local police, charging him with selling fuel without a permit. Ricky was then detained for over 12 hours being questioned. Now Ricky was a police officer himself (before marrying and moving to Turtle Bay), so there really was no question of Ricky’s innocence; rather just a ploy to keep him from providing a competitive alternative to Enrique’s little game he had going.

How We Got Fuel in Turtle Bay

Unwilling to patronize Enrique, we loaded our fuel cans in the dinghy and headed into town with the intent to walk up to the Pemex, fill them, and hitch a ride back.  We didn’t get very far when a dark, rusty red pickup truck pulled alongside to offer help….you guessed it…..IT WAS RICKY!  We caught up with Ricky’s family news and their year, talked about us getting Bonzai, and then loaded up in the back of Ricky’s borrowed truck for ride to the Pemex. On the way back, Ricky ran us to the Tortilleria (tortilla store) and tienda (general store), then drove us straight up to our dinghy on the beach.  Calling over a couple of the local boys, they loaded all our stuff into the dinghy and we were set to go!

Some Turtle Bay History

Turtle Bay is a small town of about 2500 people. Fishing is the main employment, with only about 37% earning an income. But nevertheless, Turtle Bay has pioneered the advancement of sustainable fishing methods in Baja. Years ago, the fishermen of the area formed a co-op to study, promote and advance sustainable fishing methods and today are leaders in exporting ‘certified green’ live lobster and abalone to Asian markets.

The Baja HaHa arrival into Turtle Bay is economically very important to the town. Ricky, for example, told us that the money he makes while the HaHa is in town buys everything for his family’s Christmas. So, schools and most non-tourist related business is closed so that the residents can earn money helping us gringos.  While in Turtle Bay, expect the pangas to come around several times throughout the day offering to take your trash into town, offering rides to shore, offering…well, anything you might need. In town, the restaurants are staffed and stocked and waiting for your business, residents with vehicles will offer you a ride if you’re walking, and everyone is helpful and friendly.

Baja HaHa Fun!

A big part of the Turtle Bay experience on the HaHa is the annual baseball game pitting HaHa participants against the local kids.  The Poohbah provides all of the equipment and we play on a beautiful baseball diamond complete with bleachers and a snack bar serving cold drinks and beers.  Everyone gets a chance at bat and no one’s turn at bat is up until they hit the ball. The game is tons of fun and somehow the local kids always win 🙂 . At the end of the game, all of the equipment is donated to the local school for the kids.

The HaHa also puts on a big beach party including volleyball and the annual Tug of Rope contest: Men vs. Women.  Spoiler alert: the women always win.

Our beach party ended when Alisa was hit in the back with the tug of war rope, bruising her back pretty badly. I had also twisted my ankle getting out of the dinghy…leaving Bonzai with 1/2 our crew on ‘injured reserve’ for a couple of days.

But, of course, none of that stopped us from having fun on Bonzai! Alisa managed to keep cooking delicious food and we thoroughly enjoyed our rest and play time in Turtle Bay.

Up Next….

Turtle Bay to….. well, Bonzai experienced some disasters. Stay tuned.

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S1E5: 2000 Leopard 38 Boat Tour!

We finally have all the survey work completed, the new rigging, all of our instruments are working (including the new wind instrument) so we head up the Southern California Coast for a little shake down cruise. Our route is from San Diego Bay to Mission Bay, a short little hop. While we are anchored at Mission Bay for the day, we take you on a little boat tour!

In retrospect, I should have probably cleaned the boat a little better and stowed the lines from sailing….but, well, that’s just life I guess!

Leopard Boat Tour


The Bow

We start at the bow and point out the dolphin chairs, which are great. I’ll add in here that we also have the two forward deck lockers which house two 100 gallon water storage tanks. The water tanks are filled directly from the top of the tank. There’s plenty of room left over for other storage as well. This area shares the space for our anchor chain locker and electric windlass, also.

 

Engine Access

Talking a little more in-depth about engine access. Our engines are two Westerbeke 40’s, one on each side. The starboard engine is only accessed from down below. The top wood panel removes quickly and easily for routine maintenance. For more extensive access, all of the wood panels can be removed by taking out the screws and pulling out the wood panels, which gives easy access all around the engine. The port engine has additional access from the top by rolling back the mattress of the bed in the aft cabin and opening a hinged hatch. This makes the port engine very easily accessed!

Port engine from top access

Originally, ours had foam sound insulation attached to the wood panels, but after seeing what deteriorating sound insulation looks like…little flecks and chunks of decaying foam everywhere, and falling into whatever you open…we opted to just get rid of it.  The space aft of the engine compartments are so large, we use them to store dock lines and fenders, though we do need to do some better organization of those spaces. We’re working on it!

Where to put the dinghy motor?


Regarding the dinghy’s outboard mounting situation…..what a pain that thing is!  We’ve heard both sides of “just leave it on the dinghy…it’s fine!” and “No, never leave it on the dinghy!”  We’re currently testing out leaving it on the dinghy on the davits, but that has an immediate downside of making the winching up on the dingy davits exceptionally difficult! Our dinghy winching pulley system isn’t perfect already, but the added weight is just awful. So, we’re also sketching out different ways of taking the motor off and storing it. Yay! Another pending boat project!

View from the helm


Adding to the ‘view from the helm’ segment:  when Don and I were shopping for boats, and actually on every friends’ boat that we see, this is an important aspect that I am evaluating. I’m not a tall woman. I’m 5’3″, and on most boats I can’t see the front of the boat while standing or sitting at the helm without some kind of booster step or cushion to sit on. Remember when you were little and had to sit on a telephone book to eat at the grownup table (did I just date myself there?) That’s what it feels like. So, being able for a short girl to stand or sit at the helm and actually SEE was important to us!

Also from the helm, we were so proud to replace the old Raymarine electronics with our B&G system. The only thing we did not replace was the Raymarine chain drive autopilot. These are expensive, Bonzai’s is working fine, and although old, it is a simple system that is not prone to failure. The downside is that the autopilot uses the Raymarine Seatalk system, and our B&G Zeus II uses NMEA 2000. If there is way to make these two things ‘talk’ to each other I’d love to hear it! But for now, they don’t. So heading changes cannot be controlled by or done through the chartplotter, but are done from the autopilot control display that you see at the helm.

the galley


In the galley, I pointed out our icemaker. We love that thing! Here was our reasoning….we wanted a ‘drink’ fridge. Drinks are the thing you go in and out of the fridge for the most, and if you keep them separate, your fridge/freezer will operate more efficiently and effectively.  We had looked at an Engel 12 volt portable, which are great but cost over $800.  We already had the Rtic cooler
which we’ve used and really liked for over a year, and it fits under the cockpit table, but access to ice isn’t really feasible.  Fortunately, we found this little countertop icemaker to keep us supplied with ice! We keep a container of ice in the freezer for iced drinks, and keep the Rtic filled with ice, and only run it a few hours a day, if at all. The amazon reviews for all of these little countertop icemakers run about the same…they work great for about a year or two and then die. But at $80 dollars, it seems more economical than the Engel.

Finally, there’s the FoodSaver. Honestly, I don’t know how we’d live without it on the boat! The thing about a FoodSaver vs. a Ziplock type bag is the airtight. Food stored in the airtight Foodsaver bags last forever! They don’t freezer burn and they stay fresh. We chose a compact size for Bonzai! which means you have to manually lock and unlock the lid when sealing, rather than the larger ones that you close the lid and they lock and unlock themselves. It’s really not even an extra step. This one also has the accessory port that will cold seal a mason jar for airsealing liquids, soups, and fragile food like lettuce. Very, very, very handy!
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salon


Moving into the salon! Yes, we hate the blue vinyl upholstery, too! Yes, it will be replaced….eventually! Meanwhile, over at the control panel….we replaced the original radio with our B&G V50 which has built in AIS, and interacts with our chartplotter. We also have a handheld “slave” to it that we carry out to the helm. Additionally, we have a completely separate, but weaker West Marine handheld that we carry as a backup. Behind the TV, we replaced the original masonite panel with a heavier material called SeaBoard and mounted our upgraded solar controls to it as well as the holder for the B&G handheld radio. This panel can be removed by taking out 4 screws. The panel below it with the electrical breakers hinges open giving very good access to the wiring for all of the helm instruments. There is also an access door below for even more access to the wiring.

on to the owner’s suite!

Of course, this hull has been tremendously upgraded in the new Leopard’s, but ours is fine. We love having the completely separate ‘shower room’. The sink and shower fixtures were pretty badly corroded; so far I’ve just scrubbed them up with vinegar, which removed the corrosion, but not the pitting, of course. We’ll be looking to replace those down the line to modernize that space a little. The only other thing we don’t care for is the push-to-pump shower basin pump out. You basically have to stand there pushing a button until it’s pumped out. We’ll be looking to replace it with an on/off switch. Oh wait…what’s that? ANOTHER  pending boat project!

I’m happy to say that we are completely happy with our cabin! Bonzai! came with beautiful comforter sets, we just added sheets. For sheets, we chose to go with full size flat sheets which we secure with these awesome little Bed Bands. Saves us from having to make custom fitted sheets and they work really well.

Storage issues


I think the only other thing worth mentioning is the storage issue in the aft cabin. Besides Don being a clothes horse, this is where we also stash the empty fuel cans when we don’t need them, as well as being our sail locker. We’re still working out storage solutions so that this can be a cabin again, and one project that we’ve sketched out is to cut hatches into our forward hulls that drop down into the hull’s crash boxes. This is just empty space, and if we limit it to one headsail per hull we won’t be compromising the weight distribution. With watertight hatches, we don’t compromise the function of the crash boxes. The crash boxes also have access from each of the forward cabins.

forward crash boxes…future sail locker?

But we’re also kicking around the idea of turning this cabin into a “shop”, and installing a small washing machine. Not sure what’s going to happen there in the future!

As always, thanks for following along here on the blog as well as over at YouTube!  See you soon!

 

 

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